So Long Summer - Cutthroat Pass, 10.9.19
After returning from our wonderful trip to the Sawtooth Range in Idaho I wasn’t quite ready to close the book on what has been one of the best hiking seasons in many a year. I kept my eye on the weather in several locations waiting for clear, sunny weather. While waiting, the Cascades got an early season snowstorm that saw snow levels drop as low as 3,000’. Thankfully, the sun returned and things looked good for a hike yesterday. Greg Dilley and I settled on a ten mile out and back on the Pacific Crest Trail from Rainy Pass to Cutthroat Pass. We knew there would be snow and we knew it would be on the chilly side but we figured we would go as far as we could and we could always turn around if conditions proved to be too harsh.
The thermometer said 22 degrees at the trailhead and NOOA called for temps around zero at the pass. We were dressed for the occasion in nothing but a jockstrap and some flipflops (just seeing if you’re paying attention) and we proceeded up the PCT from Rainy Pass. Despite the cold, it was a gorgeous day and we warmed up quickly as we hiked up the trail at a decent clip.
First views across the valley
The trail had a little snow cover on it and plenty of snow on the side but it was all fairly easy to navigate. Several creeks had to be crossed which was made more difficult by rime ice on all the rocks sticking up out of the water.
First creek crossing
After several more creeks the trees began thinning out and we caught glimpses of Cutthroat Pass high above us, brilliant white snow against an azure sky.
Another creek crossing with the pass on the horizon
The main reason Dilley wanted to do this particular hike was to see some of the exquisite western larch which don’t grow in western Washington. Similar to the aspens, larches turn a brilliant gold in the late fall before dropping their needles. As we came out of the pine forest we entered a basin filled with the lovely larches and while not fully prime, they were still incredibly beautiful.
Golden larches above the valley
Soon the trail began a series of gradual switchbacks as we climbed towards Cutthroat Pass. Here temperatures began to drop and there was more snow accumulation on the trail. Speaking of the trail, as I mentioned, we were on the Pacific Crest Trail or PCT, which runs from the Mexican border in California to the Canadian border at Manning Provincial Park, a distance of 2,635 miles. Every year hundreds of people attempt to hike the entire length which is typically a five to six month endeavor. During our hike we met at least twenty or so thru hikers striving to complete the trek. From Cutthroat Pass it is still a three day walk to the finish line. Lucky for them, even though they must freeze their asses off at night, the forecast for the next few days called for clear sunny skies. One of the thru hikers had slept at Cutthroat Pass the previous night and the temperature was -1 degree. However, considering all the hardship these hardy souls must have been through since last April, they were all pretty chipper now that they could see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Greg chillin’ on the PCT
As we climbed higher, more and more peaks came into view and with a fresh blanket of snow, everything was just awe-inspiring.
Dome Peak and the Chikamin Glacier
Soon we broke out of the trees altogether and worked our way up the final stretch to Cutthroat Pass.
Just below Cutthroat Pass
Arriving at the pass we were greeted with spectacular views across to a whole new set of peaks including Silver Star Mountain, Liberty Bell, Cutthroat Peak and the Molar.
Cutthroat Pass panorama
Way back in 2012, Team Pack It Or Go Without It (which included Neighbor Greg, Andrew, his friend Josiah, Bridgit and me) hiked forty five miles in a weeklong backpack from Harts Pass to this very spot. We had camped on a ridge above the pass on our last night before hiking out. In this same spot we had camped, Greg and I found some dry rocks, ate lunch and then took some photos. This proved to be a bit difficult as the temperature was so cold that within one minute of taking my gloves off my fingers were so cold I could barely squeeze my lens cap. We ended up staying at the pass for roughly forty-five minutes before beginning our descent back down to the car.
Our lunch spot
Silver Star Mountain
With the afternoon sun bathing the hillsides, the larches were even more beautiful on our way down.
It turned out to be just a fantastic day to be in the mountains and if by chance the snow and rain keep me from doing any more hikes this year, this would be a great finale to an epic hiking season.