Summer/Fall 2023, Nine State Tour, 8.20.23 - 9.25.23, Part 3 of 9: Elliot Ridge Backpack, Colorado
The dates for this entire trip were centered around being in Denver for my niece’s wedding on Labor Day weekend. I grew up in the suburbs west of Denver so we go back frequently and it is always great to see old friends while there.
The drive from Dubois to Colorado didn’t have a lot to offer in terms of scenery until we got to the Colorado state line above Walden. I had never been to Walden before so I found it very interesting to drive into Colorado that way. Between Walden and US 40 near Rabbit Ears Pass was particularly scenic with the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness off to the east and the Never Summer Range to the west. Once we hit US 40 we were back on familiar roads. We drove down to Dillon through Kremmling and then up I-70 through the Eisenhower Tunnel. Going up that hill to the tunnel was a bit taxing on the Navibahn but we had no issues. Down the other side, just before you pop out of the mountains we pulled into Chief Hosa Campground where we based ourselves for the Denver stay of six nights. It’s a little noisy with the interstate so close by but it fit our needs well and it was nice being in a forest setting.
Over the course of our stay in Denver we visited various friends, checked out the History Colorado Center which had a John Fielder Exhibit (one of my favorite photographers) and of course lots of family stuff.
One of our visits was to see a long time family friend. Anny just turned ninety-four. She and her husband were avid backpackers in their day and I’ve spent many an hour talking to her about incredible trips they took long, long ago. One in particular was up here in Washington State long before the North Cascades Highway was built. Glenn, Anny and their six month old daughter hitched a ride up into the Cascades with some loggers and backpacked over Cascade Pass to Stehekin. Anyone who knows this route can appreciate what an undertaking that must have been before the highway. Anyway, she was thrilled to see us and we had a great visit.
Another great evening was spent at my old friend Carl’s. I’ve known Carl for some forty-eight years. We met right after I graduated from Wheat Ridge High School and got a job at Budget Tapes and Records. Our visit turned into a reunion of five of us who had been coworkers at Budget back in 1975. We all agreed that the Budget days were truly a magical time for all of us and it was a very warm and joyous reunion.
The wedding took place on Sunday of Labor Day weekend and Monday morning Bridgit and I headed back up I-70, through the tunnel and down to Dillon where we had reserved a site at Heaton Bay Campground on Dillon Reservoir. We really liked this campground and had great views of various high peaks right from our site.
We met up with several other friends for dinner that night. The plan was to leave Bridgit and the Jeep for the next two days while I went on a short backpack trip. Now some would be appalled that I would ditch out on my wife during our vacation but I run her ragged on these trips so she could hardly wait to have a couple of days to herself to relax.
The day after Labor Day, Mike, Sandy and I drove north on US 9 and turned off just past Green Mountain Reservoir. We followed a road about ten miles up to the trailhead for Elliot Ridge. This would be a fairly short backpack with modest elevation gain but the trailhead is at 11,150’ so I was very glad I had already spent some time at higher altitudes in Yellowstone, Dubois and even in Denver to acclimate. Not to mention that this would be my first backpack of the year.
The trail started out as a short climb up into the forest. From there we gradually climbed and soon we popped out into open meadows as the trail slowly climbed up onto the wide spine of Elliot Ridge. As we climbed, various peaks would appear off in the far distance and I did my best to identify them by memory. If that failed I had Mike and my Peakfinder app to verify my guesses. At two miles we entered the Eagles Nest Wilderness and we started getting views of the rugged Gore Range ahead of us. A brisk wind accompanied us but it wasn’t too cold given the altitude. After about three miles we dropped off the side of the ridge and over to a knoll that held a clump of scrubby trees. There are no designated backcountry sites in this area but we managed to find enough space for two tents in the pocket of the trees which provided excellent wind protection. Our camp sat at 11,628’. It’s been a long time since I camped at that altitude but I felt fine. We spent the rest of the afternoon just kicking back and watching the light change on the Gore Range. We had a nice rock outcropping right by our camp that was a perfect view spot. In front of us was 13,311’ Eagles Nest and just to the right and behind it we could see the summit of the highest peak in the Gore Range, 13,554’ Mount Powell. Way off to the right of those was a prominent point named Meridian Peak (12,432’). We decided that would be our goal for the following day.
I could tell it was pretty windy throughout the night but our trees gave us really good protection and I stayed plenty warm enough. In the morning we made breakfast and hot chocolate before heading out on a day hike. It was still pretty windy and it was a biting wind which wasn’t the most pleasant but we had the proper clothes for the task and set out to go exploring. For awhile we stayed below the ridgeline to block the wind but eventually we had to climb up and over the ridge. Now we were getting buffeted pretty good and Sandy decided she would head back to camp. Mike and I continued on. Before heading towards Meridian’s summit we veered over to a shelf overlooking the upper drainage of Cataract Creek. Here we found a large area full of small tarns and marshes. It was quite beautiful and I could imagine what killer reflection shots I could get of the Gores if there was no wind, although at the time I was doubtful there was ever no wind where we were. We made our way back up onto the ridge and followed an old closed Jeep track along the ridge towards the summit of Meridian Peak. The last part steepened a bit but we had no trouble working our way up to the summit. Surprisingly, the wind died down substantially and it was very pleasant sitting up there.
And the views! Across from us, Eagles Nest and Mount Powell towered above the headwaters of Cataract Creek. Various peaks of the Gore Range could be seen looking southwest. In the distance we could spot dozens of peaks, many of which were fourteen thousand footers that we had climbed in the past including Mt. Elbert, Mt Massive, Mount of the Holy Cross and the Maroon Bells. Even Capitol Peak rose up way off in the distance. To the north Mike picked out Long’s Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness summits. Just below us we could see Vail Mountain with the ski runs all facing us. We were sitting on a pretty impressive spot.
Thoroughly satisfied, we made our way back off the summit and hiked back to camp. We were planning to spend another night and pack out in the morning but since we had done all we had set out to do, we decided to break camp and pack out that afternoon. We got back to the car with plenty of light left and Mike and Sandy dropped me off back at the Navibahn. It had been quite a long time since I had last done a backpack in Colorado so I was really happy. Mike had been wanting to take me to Elliot Ridge for a number of years and it was certainly worth the wait. The Gores are really rugged and since there are no fourteeners in the range it sees far fewer people. Great trip.
Since we got back early, Bridgit and I had one last full day before moving on. We drove up Ute Pass at sunrise to see the full length of the Gore Range. We also drove through Breckenridge and up to the top of Hoosier Pass. We had great views of several other fourteeners I had climbed when I lived in Colorado including Mount Lincoln, Quandary Peak, Grays Peak and Torreys Peak. Mike has climbed all of them and plenty more but I moved to Washington and ended up with twenty-four fourteeners. I’m hoping someday to climb Mount Sneffels but we’ll see.
We had a great stay in Denver and up in the mountains but now it was time to shift gears and transition to more of a desert climate. That story will be told in the next installment so stay tuned!