2021 Spring Tour of the Southwest, 3.31.21 - 4.14.21, Part 9 of 11, Dead Horse Point/Shafer Trail/Mesa Arch/Upheaval Dome/Aztec Butte
Friday was a day to explore the Island In The Sky. I was very happy to be in this district of Canyonlands. In ’89 our trip to the Needles District was my first time experiencing Canyonlands and I instantly fell in love with the place. On that trip, armed with my new 4-Runner, we drove down Salt Creek Canyon and camped at Peekaboo Spring. We managed to drive all the way up Salt Creek to Angel Arch. We also hiked extensively through the Needles over Elephant Hill, through the Devil’s Kitchen and back around to Squaw Flats. It was breathtaking (and long!).
A year later was our trip to the Maze District. This was wild country. We needed two extra external gas tanks just to get in and out of there. An insanely scary road allowed us to drop into Horseshoe Canyon to camp and then hike to the Great Gallery, a collection of incredible Indian wall art. Another night was spent on Panorama Point before we dropped down to Maze Overlook and finally going down the Flint Trail past Teapot Dome and the Land of the Standing Rocks to the Doll House. Back then there were no other people around and it was the most rugged country I had ever seen. So I was thrilled to be in Island In The Sky and we got a great sampling of what it has to offer on this day.
Mike and I started the day off by getting up at 5:45AM and driving to the point at Dead Horse Point State Park. The view of the bend in the Colorado River is it snakes its way through the canyons is iconic and I wanted to capture the scene at sunrise. There is a giant viewing platform at the point and another smaller one just below it but we thought the best view was from a long rock ledge even below the viewing platforms. There were about five other photographers there that morning and it turns out they were part of a workshop. There was ample room for all of us and I found my prime spot with the nearest photographer at least twenty feet away. The sunrise was spectacular and we stayed until the sun had crawled down the walls of the canyon to the river before heading back to camp.
Sunrise from Dead Horse Point
Sunrise from Dead Horse Point
After breakfast the four of us drove back into the Island In The Sky. After a brief stop at the visitor center we crossed the road to have a look at Shafer Trail. This is the road that is normally the start or finish spot when riding the White Rim Trail. Seeing so much of the trail from various points above (Shafer Trail Overlook, White Rim Overlook and Grandview Point) made us want to get a Jeep so we could drive the road.
Near the start of the Shafer Trail Road
The switchbacks that lead down to the canyon rims
Thanks to Windows and Instagram, Mesa Arch has become the most sought after photo in Island In The Sky. Specifically, at dawn when the sun rising in the east as it lights up the underneath side of the arch making it glow bright orange, with Washer Woman Arch and Monster Tower framed by the arch. I’ve seen pictures of up to forty photographers all crammed together to try and capture this shot and I just didn’t want to be a part of that mess so we went there mid-morning long after the sunrise photographers had gone home to bed. Part of its allure is that it is only a .7 mile out and back trail making it accessible to almost anyone. And sure enough, there were a lot of people there when we arrived. Kids running all over the place, people posing in front of the arch and generally too crowded for our liking. Despite all that, I was extremely pleased to somehow manage to get some good shots of Mesa Arch without any people in the picture (I had to move some kid’s coat he left draped on the ground right in front of the arch).
The classic Mesa Arch shot but well after sunrise
Washer Woman Arch and Monster Tower framed by Mesa Arch with the La Sal Mountains behind. I even managed to get a bit of leftover orange glow.
Next up was Upheaval Dome. The trail that encircles this interesting area was a bit long for all of us (Mike did it a few days later), but we opted to hike the 1.7 mile trail to two overlooks around the crater. Scientists aren’t 100% sure what caused this odd feature but most think it was a giant meteor that smashed into the earth some 60 million years ago.
Bridgit and Jon at the first overlook
Upheaval Dome from the first overlook
Just back up the road a bit we stopped to hike up to the top of Aztec Butte. This was a big hunk of slickrock so once you reached the base of the butte it was a steep climb up the rock to reach the top. Along the way a side trail led to two Puebloan graneries where they stored water and food. They are typically found built under overhanging ledges as this one was.
Granery
Cool tree
Aztec Butte
Once the summit is attained a short path encircles the summit rim offering really nice views down into Trail Canyon which is a spur of the larger Taylor Canyon.
Trail Canyon from the top of Aztec Butte
On the way out we actually drove down the Shafer Trail to a pullout just before the steep switchbacks. This gave us a great look down Shafer Canyon out to the La Sals.
Shafer Canyon
Read on for Part 10…