The American Alps, Mt. Baker/Ptarmigan Ridge, 8.31.13
Many times I have heard the North Cascades described as the American Alps. Having hiked in them extensively for the past 21 years, I couldn't agree more. It is a range of awe-inspiring beauty comprised of a ruggedness and majesty that words and pictures can only barely hint at.
Yesterday neighbor Greg and I took advantage of glorious weather to go to an area that is buried in snow most years. This has been a particularly warm summer and the melting snowpack allowed for the road above Heather Meadows to Austin Pass and Artist Point to open for the first time in several years. Austin Pass is sandwiched between two incredible peaks, Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker, both of which you can get phenomenal views of right from the parking lot. So why bother to even strap on the boots and exert yourself? Read on.
Many times I have stared up at Coleman Pinnacle from deep down on Baker Lake and have felt a strong urge to climb it. I figured that the summit of Coleman Pinnacle would be a great spot to view Mount Baker. So on this Labor Day weekend, Greg and I left Lake Stevens at 5:45AM, arriving at Austin Pass at 8:40AM and hit the trail. The first mile traversed along the side of Table Mountain past the headwaters of Swift Creek to a trail junction. The Chain Lakes Trail headed around Table Mountain past several beautiful lakes and circled back to Heather Meadows but we had another destination in mind for this day. We took the Ptarmigan Ridge Trail which dropped down a ways and crossed a rocky hillside with several small creeks and then climbed a snow field to the crest of Ptarmigan Ridge. Here the trail traversed around a knoll which led to spectacular views of where we were headed.
Greg at the trailhead
Mt. Baker and Coleman Pinnacle
Mt. Baker and Coleman Pinnacle after crossing Ptarmigan Ridge
Coleman Pinnacle
Coleman Pinnacle looked steep but achievable. The trail actually traverses right underneath it and as we approached I thought that the safest route looked to be to climb up through the greenery under the peak, curve left around a scree slope to the right hand ridge and then scramble the rock ridge to the summit. We decided that since it was early we would keep hiking to see if an alternative route might present itself as we passed the pinnacle. It didn't but we decided to keep exploring and we could always scramble the peak on the way back.
Beyond Coleman Pinnacle the trail curved around and headed further west between the pinnacle and Mount Baker. Further and further we went until we could see the immense East and West Portals like a giant gateway protecting the upper slopes of Mount Baker. Our trail slowly descended off the ridge and onto a wasteland of volcanic debris scattered across a plateau only recently exposed by receding glaciers. It was a wild place. We were hoping we could find a way to get up onto the East Portal and sure enough, after crossing several snowfields we found a route marked by cairns that wound its way up to the top of the Portal. Once on top we followed a rocky, spiny ridge across to the very end of the portal.
The Portals
Mount Baker was now close enough to touch and the only thing between us and the West Portal was a sheer 500 foot cliff with only yawning glaciers scarred by crevasses to keep us from going any further. This was the end of the route for us.
Happy hiking buds
Ansel Wannabe
From our perch high on the East Portal, the entire Cascade Range lay before us. Greg and I identified dozens and dozens of peaks off in the distance and we had incredible views in every direction. Most spectacular of all was the incomparable Mount Shuksan, easily one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever laid eyes on.
Mt. Shuksan
Mt. Baker summit
We stayed on the summit for two full hours before finally working our way back. Along the way we passed by a glacial lake named Goat Lake (just what we need, another Goat Lake), just another treat on this gorgeous hike. It looked like a great spot to pitch a tent and shoot sunrise pics of Mt. Baker. By the time we got back to Coleman Pinnacle there was no need to climb it. We had already been beyond and higher up so it left us no reason to go up it.
Mood shot
Goat Lake
It was a spectacular day and I sure hope we have a dry, warm fall season so we can get in a few more great hikes before the winter rains come.
Say hello to our little friend