Packin' the Beartooths! The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, 8.15.21 - 8.26.21, Part 6 of 6
Our ability to adapt to the changing circumstances served us very well and we had been extremely fortunate on each of the three days we had been hiking. Partly by chance and partly by design, we elected to hike to Glacier Lake on our final day. Glacier Lake is located on the northeast side of the Beartooth Plateau. On the map it was easy to see that the lake was butted up against the massive cliffs that dominate the northern side of the plateaus so I wanted to see for myself if it was as dramatic as it looked on the map. There were four particular reasons why this ended up being an excellent decision. First, normally this can be a quite popular hike so by doing it on a Wednesday we reduced the odds for having a larger crowd of people on the trail. Second, this would be the shortest hike of the four days which left us time in the afternoon for some other activities. The third reason was that the approach road for this hike was the same road Mike and Sandy were already camped on which made picking them up and getting to the trailhead very easy. Finally, what I hadn’t even factored in was that the Glacier Lake Trail and the lake itself got really great morning light which made for better photos for the location.
Wednesday morning dawned clear and warm. This meant that every day I was able to hike at least part of the day in shorts and a short sleeved hiking shirt. After stopping into Coffee Factory Roasters to get breakfast bagels for everyone, I drove out to Mike and Sandy’s campground. After breakfast we started the drive up the Rock Creek Road eight miles to the trailhead. The road started out as a smooth dirt road but the further we went, the rougher the road became. I didn’t need to put it into four wheel drive, but it was a pretty bumpy ride. Along the way we began to get incredible views to the area we would be hiking.
Along Rock Creek Road
Weird twisted boulder on the Rock Creek Road
There was only one other vehicle at the trailhead and the couple who owned it were the only people we would see on the trail until we were halfway back to the Jeep at the end of the hike. The Glacier Lake Trail is only about three miles each way if you include our side trip. It starts out fairly steep as it climbs up a rocky mountainside along Moon Creek. We crossed the creek and shortly after came to a side trail. This trail leads to two other lakes called Moon Lake and Shelf Lake but we wanted to see Glacier Lake so we continued on the main trail.
Bridge over Moon Creek
As we climbed higher the scenery became much more rugged with big rock walls rising above us and twisted gnarly trees clearly battered by the winds that frequent this valley.
Climbing to the ridge above and to the left of Mike’s head
As we topped out on the ridge the walls of the Beartooth Plateau came into view and they were even more rugged and dramatic than I could have even hoped for. This was some serious mountain grandeur.
Sandy and Mike at the top of the ridge
Nestled into a depression on the ridge top, a small alpine tarn made for a nice reflection of the great wall of the plateau
As we crossed through the gap on the ridge and made it to the other side, the full view of the Beartooth Plateau was splayed out before us. As I had suspected, Glacier Lake was situated down below us right at the base of these huge rock walls.
First view of Glacier Lake
Team Beartooth having a great time
From the ridge it was a few hundred foot descent to get to Glacier Lake which sat at 9,702’. Long ago the lake had been dammed up to increase the depth of the lake. We crossed the dam and followed a way trail around the corner to the southwest end of the lake. Continuing, we passed by Little Glacier Lake and then a short way further over a rise we came to Emerald Lake. Glacier Lake is notorious for getting pretty windy around mid-day but Emerald Lake is around the corner and protected from the wind. We found a wonderful spot by the lake to sit and eat lunch. Across from us the walls of the Beartooth Plateau rose straight up out of the lake. Looking up and down the length of the plateau we could see no easy access to the top of the plateau. Oddly enough, as the crow flies, Becker Lake was right across from us on the south side of the plateau but miles and miles away by any hikeable route.
Southwest end of Glacier Lake
After lunch we packed up our things and started reluctantly working our way back to the trailhead. Being a fairly short distance we took our time. We didn’t do a lot of talking as everyone was deep into their own thoughts reflecting on their Beartooth experience.
Little Glacier Lake with Glacier Lake in the background
Little Glacier Lake
Gnarled wind-blown trees near the ridge top
Looking down the valley of the West Fork of Rock Creek. The Beartooth Highway runs atop the furthest ridge. We could actually see cars driving along the ridge framed by the skyline.
Back at my motel we all took showers and then went out for a nice steak dinner in Red Lodge. It was a great way to wrap up what had been a really wonderful trip. I felt no remorse whatsoever that our original plan to backpack fell through. It made it so easy that all three of us were so willing to adapt on the fly. Mike and Sandy are great hiking partners and we are building quite a resume including our backpack trip to the Glacier Peak Wilderness and hiking the Alpine Circuit at Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park. Even the weather cooperated. The freezing temperatures killed every mosquito in the Beartooths but one and it found Sandy as if it were a match made in heaven. Our adapted plan gave us a tremendous sampler of what the Beartooths have to offer, yet it really whetted our appetites to see more of this great area. It is a place of equal grandeur as the best our national parks have to offer with none of the crowds associated with those parks. I could go back there many times and I am sure I would never have a lack of new and spectacular scenery to explore. This trip was incredible, yet it barely scratched the surface of the splendor that is the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.